Beyond the Passes: Journey from Gadsar to Gangabal on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

🌅 Continuing the Journey: From Gadsar to Gangabal – The Final Stretch of Heaven

If you’ve read my previous post – From Stillness to Summits: Vishansar to Gadsar on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek, you already know how the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek transforms from a physical challenge into a soulful journey. After conquering the mighty Gadsar Pass and finding new energy amidst laughter, campfires, and Mafia games, it was time to move ahead — into the final and perhaps most stunning leg of the trek.

This part of the trail takes us through shifting moods of the mountains — from icy river crossings and lonely army posts to glacial lakes so blue they feel unreal. What starts as another exhausting climb ends with a view that redefines the word heaven. And as the trek finally descends through pine forests to Naranag, you realize that it’s not just your feet that have walked miles — your spirit has too.

A Morning Painted in Clouds

Even after so many nights on the trek, sleep still seemed like a luxury I couldn’t afford. The cold refused to show mercy, and I found myself once again sitting beside Chacha, our ever-cheerful support staff, as he lit his morning fire and puffed gently on his pipe — his ritual before sunrise.

But this morning at Gadsar was something special. The valley looked like a dream suspended in clouds. Wisps of mist drifted lazily between the mountains, constantly changing shapes, as if the sky itself was playing artist.

Our day began with a freezing shock — crossing an icy stream first thing in the morning. The water bit into our legs like needles, and though most of us made it through without a mishap, poor Hussain lost his footing on a boulder and had a brief splash. His expression said it all — equal parts shock and amusement.

Once we warmed up through a steep ascent, the trail rewarded us instantly. The panorama around us was pure poetry — layers of ridges drenched in early light, valleys that seemed to float in mist. This was trekking in its truest form: hardship and awe, hand in hand.

A Moment with the Indian Army

Midway through the trail, we came across the only army check post on the Kashmir Great Lakes route. It felt surreal to see these men standing guard in such remote beauty — silent sentinels of a fragile paradise.

While our IDs were verified, we shared a few moments of conversation with the soldiers. Their calm strength was humbling. They live among these harsh terrains year-round, away from home, ensuring that we get to walk these trails safely. It was a quiet reminder of the realities hidden beneath the postcard beauty of Kashmir.

Once cleared, we continued our way through a boulder-strewn valley — every turn opening into a new frame worth capturing. By the time we reached Satsar, it was only early afternoon, yet the campsite was already freezing cold and windy enough to numb our hands within minutes.

Ditching Satsar – Chasing Comfort and Warmth

At 12,000 feet, Satsar is the highest campsite of the entire trek. But beauty has its price — and here, it was the cold. Even under the afternoon sun, the chill cut deep.

After some deliberation and a quick discussion with our trek leader Riaz, we decided to skip the Satsar campsite altogether and move ahead to Gangabal Lake, which sits at a lower altitude — and promised a slightly warmer night.

Little did we know, that “extra walk” would turn into one of the most exhausting stretches of the entire trek.

Through Rocks and Wind – The March to Gangabal

Post lunch, we began what I can safely call the most irritating stretch of the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

The soft meadow trail soon gave way to a chaotic field of giant boulders. It wasn’t walking anymore — it was leaping, balancing, and praying not to twist an ankle or tumble down. The path hugged a steep drop on one side, so each step demanded attention. What looked like a one-hour patch turned into a patience test that drained us mentally and physically.

And just when I thought we’d seen the worst, the trail hit us with another challenge — the steep ascent to Zajibal Pass. With my energy running on fumes, every step felt heavier than the last. It was pure willpower that finally got me to the top.

At the Zajibal Pass – Heaven Revealed

And then — silence.

Standing atop the Zajibal Pass, the exhaustion vanished. Spread below me were the twin jewels of Kashmir — Gangabal and Nundkol Lakes — their turquoise waters glinting in the afternoon light. It was one of those rare moments that steal your breath, your words, your sense of time.

If heaven exists on Earth, this had to be it.

We wanted to stay there forever, but the weather had other plans. Dark clouds began gathering over the ridges, forcing us to rush down before the skies opened up. The descent felt endless — every bend revealing another stretch of trail and yet no sign of our camp.

By the time we reached the Gangabal campsite, the rain gods finally unleashed their fury — but mercifully, only after we made it in. That night, drained and grateful, I finally slept peacefully for the first time on this trek.

Day 6: Farewell to the Lakes – Gangabal to Naranag

A Morning by the Twin Lakes

For once, I didn’t rush out to join Chacha’s fire circle. Instead, I allowed myself a few extra minutes of sleep — my first true rest in days. When I finally stepped out, the twin lakes lay before us in quiet splendour, their waters mirroring the early light.

We spent the morning exploring the shores of Gangabal and Nundkol. Sachin, SK, and Srinivas Sir even took a dip in the ice-cold water — a baptism of sorts before the trek’s end.

After breakfast, we gathered to thank the incredible kitchen staff and helpers who had kept us nourished and warm through the coldest nights. There was laughter, hugs, and photos — including one where Andry proudly wore Chacha’s phiran for the perfect farewell shot.

The Last Descent – Into the Forests of Naranag

Our final descent to Naranag felt like a curtain call. We first passed the serene Nundkol Lake, then vast grasslands drenched in light, before finally entering the thick pine forest — the first treeline we had seen in nearly a week.

There’s something strangely emotional about that moment — when you re-enter the forest after days of barren mountains. Maybe it’s because it signals the end, or maybe because the earthy smell of pine feels like coming home.

The downhill trail, however, wasn’t easy — steep, slippery, and full of loose pebbles that kept our focus sharp till the very last step. Around 4 PM, after hours of descent, we finally reached Naranag, where our cabs awaited to take us back to Srinagar.

As the mountains faded in the rearview mirror, exhaustion gave way to quiet satisfaction. The Kashmir Great Lakes Trek wasn’t just a journey across valleys and passes — it was a journey inward, through fatigue, laughter, silence, and awe.

Final Thoughts

The Kashmir Great Lakes Trek is not just about the lakes, passes, or valleys. It’s about moments: warming your hands on a fire at dawn, laughing with strangers over Mafia, or watching the Gujju gang break into Garba at 13,800 ft.

It’s tough, yes — but that’s what makes every sip of tea, every glimpse of a turquoise lake, and every sunrise feel earned. If you’re planning one Himalayan trek in your life, let it be this one.

Summary

Article Name

Beyond the Passes: Journey from Gadsar to Gangabal on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

Description

From misty mornings in Gadsar to the breathtaking twin lakes of Gangabal, this leg of the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek captures the soul of the Himalayas. Each pass crossed brings new beauty — from icy streams and lonely army posts to the heavenly reflections of Nundkol and Gangabal.

Author

Abhilash

Publisher Name

Just an Ordinary Trekker

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