Chaos at Bagdogra, Serenity in Chitre: A Memorable Start to the Sandakphu Trek
With every step drenched in views of the legendary Sleeping Buddha, and every bend glowing with brilliant red rhododendrons. The Sandakphu trek feels less like a trail and more like a moving postcard from the Himalayas. Few treks in India let you stand face-to-face with four of the world’s five tallest mountains — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Kanchenjunga. All visible to the naked eye from Tumling and Sandakphu on a clear morning.
From shadowy forests to rolling meadows, misty ridges to snow-plastered slopes, Sandakphu is a mood swing of terrains. A trek that stays gentle on beginners yet rich in Himalayan drama. Adding to its charm, the trail weaves effortlessly along the Indo–Nepal border, letting you sip tea in India while your feet dangle in Nepal. Cultures blend, cuisines merge, and every conversation feels cross-border.
Day 1: Landing in Bagdogra — and Into Chaos
Bagdogra & the Didi Dilemma
I had booked my Sandakphu trek with Trip360 for the second week of March 2019. Their plan was simple — assemble in Siliguri railway station the next morning and drive to Chitrey. Simple, until I arrived in Bagdogra a day early… and discovered that Didi (Mamata Banerjee) herself was in town.
And with her came the classic Indian VIP special:
total airport mayhem.
Not a single cab was allowed inside the premises. Even the prepaid counter wore the helpless look of someone expecting you to magically produce your own ride. I was told to wait at least an hour — “or maybe more” — because who knew when taxis might be let in again.
It was the perfect reminder of how one VIP movement can send hundreds of normal people into chaos, dragging luggage, sweating, waiting, wondering.
I eventually walked out of the premises, hoping for a miracle. Most drivers were only interested in Darjeeling and Gangtok runs — better money, of course. After a fair amount of bargaining and rejection, one cabbie finally agreed to Siliguri… at a price that practically included my soul. But with zero options left, I surrendered.
Landing in Siliguri — A Shady Room & An Unexpected Friend
Siliguri, affectionately called the Chicken’s Neck, is India’s most crucial 20-km stretch — the narrow land that connects the mainland to Sikkim and the entire Northeast.
My hotel, booked on MakeMyTrip, looked fantastic online. Reality, however, looked like it needed divine intervention.
Shady room? Check.
Suspicious bedsheets? Check.
Taps that refused to work? Double check.
I requested a room change and got one equally questionable — but at least the taps worked, and that was enough to call it “luxury” for the night.
A fellow trekker, Ram, had landed in Siliguri without a stay, so I invited him over — unaware of the horror waiting inside. To my relief, Ram turned out to be the kind of chilled-out human who could survive anywhere.
Soon, with a couple of cold beers and a hot spread of Chinese dishes from a local eatery, the room didn’t feel so bad. A little travel bonding, a little laughter, and suddenly everything felt like the calm before the adventure.
Day 2: The Eastern Himalayas Greet Us
Meeting the Trek Family
Morning came with checkout bags and empty stomachs. Since we couldn’t find anything decent on the way, we grabbed breakfast at a stall near the railway station and met the rest of our group — Ajinkya, Swarnima, and Suptaru. Only Sayan was missing; he arrived late, starving and apologetic.
Once he joined, we finally left behind Siliguri’s dust and chaos and drove toward the Eastern Himalayas — hearts full, stomachs not so much.
Into the Hills & First Taste of the Mountains
The moment the plains vanished behind us, the air softened and cooled. Our first mission was simple: feed poor Sayan. Our driver took us to a small hillside dhaba, a place that didn’t look like much — but the pork momos I ate there are something I can still taste years later.
The next stop was Pashupatinath Market on the Nepal border near Mirik. What started as a quick trip to buy Swarnima a warm cap quickly turned into a mini celebration. We discovered a shop selling Gorkha beer, which we all sampled except Sayan. We also picked up a bottle of Nepal’s iconic Khukri rum, planning to taste it at night. The Sandakphu trek hadn’t even begun, but the “team chemistry” certainly had.
Throwback memories from Sandakphu trek!
Chitre — A Mist-Covered Gem on the Border
Because Trip360’s itinerary skipped Manebhanjyang, we drove straight to Chitre. By the time we reached, a thick veil of mist had swallowed the whole village. It felt like walking into a Himalayan version of Silent Hill — quiet, eerie, and strangely inviting.
The Monastery in Two Countries
The Tibetan monastery here is the heart of Chitre — a serene retreat famous for meditation caves used by monks. What makes it magical is its location:
the entrance lies in India, the rest of it in Nepal.
Even with the mist blocking all views, including Kanchenjunga, the experience was surreal. The eight small stupas, the ancient paintings, the silence — it all felt timeless.
Strolling down the sights of this monestery, it definitely took me by surprise I must confess!
A Warm Night in Chitre
As temperatures dropped, we returned to our teahouse for hot tea and snacks. Soon, it was time to open the Khukri rum we had bought earlier. Warm, smooth, and surprisingly good — it gave the legendary Old Monk a strong Himalayan competitor.
Later that night, after dinner, all of us except Swarnima and Sayan ventured out into pitch darkness. On the Indo–Nepal border road, Ajinkya suggested a bizarre idea:
“Lie down on the road for five minutes with all lights off.”
Why? No clue.
Did we agree? Absolutely.
We lay there in total silence, staring into nothingness, feeling the cold wind and the thrill of being nowhere yet everywhere. It was one of those odd moments that quietly become unforgettable.
The Chitre X-Factor — A Host Like No Other
Our stay wouldn’t have been half as memorable without our teahouse host — easily one of the most charming, funny, and warm people we met on the trek. His family, including an adorable cat, made us feel at home instantly.
Well she was one of the cutest cats I had encountered in my whole life. We met this beautiful creature in our stay in Chitrey during the Sandakphu trek.
At 11 p.m., when we sheepishly requested tea, he walked into the kitchen with a smile and served everyone without a hint of irritation. Hospitality here wasn’t service — it was love.
As we finally returned to our beds, exhaustion settled into our bodies, but our minds buzzed with excitement. Tomorrow, the real Sandakphu Trek would begin.
Final Thoughts — Standing at the Edge of Sandakphu Trek
That night in Chitre, wrapped in cold mountain air and warmed by unexpected friendships, felt like the perfect prologue to something bigger. The chaos of Bagdogra, the shady hotel room in Siliguri, the laughter shared over Gorkha beer, the mist-covered monastery, the spontaneous moments on the Indo–Nepal border — everything had quietly prepared us for what was coming.
Tomorrow wouldn’t just be about walking. It would be about stepping into landscapes that shift with every hour, watching giants rise above the clouds, crossing in and out of two countries as effortlessly as breathing, and discovering why Sandakphu holds a special place in every trekker’s heart.
As we pulled our blankets tighter and tried to calm the excitement bubbling inside us, one thing was certain — the journey so far had only been the trailer.
From the next sunrise in Chitre, the main story of Sandakphu Trek would finally unfold.
Click here to continue to the next part of my Sandakphu trek experience — where the mountains, borders, and stories get even better.
Abhilash
Hi, I’m Abhilash, the voice behind Just an Ordinary Trekker. I’m not a professional mountaineer — just someone who discovered a deep passion for the mountains and the magic of the trail. What began as a weekend escape soon turned into a journey across some of India’s most beautiful trekking destinations — from the rugged Himalayan treks to the serene trails of Uttarakhand and Kashmir. Through Just an Ordinary Trekker, I share honest trekking guides, personal experiences, and inspiring travel stories that go beyond the itinerary. My goal is to help fellow trekkers — beginners and seasoned hikers alike — plan better, trek safer, and truly connect with nature. If you’re searching for authentic insights, practical tips, and a dose of mountain inspiration, you’ll feel right at home here. Welcome to Just an Ordinary Trekker — one of the few India trekking blogs that celebrates not just the summits, but the stories along the way.
One Comment
Bindiya S
Lovely, well written.