Lost on the Kheerganga Trek: A First-Timer’s Himalayan Misadventure

When Adventure Turns Into Survival in the Himalayas

What started as a dream Kheerganga trek quickly spiralled into one of the scariest experiences of my life. I found myself teetering on a path barely wide enough for one foot, a sheer drop of at least 100 meters to my right, and nothing to hold on to. My heart raced. My backpack felt like it weighed a ton. I genuinely began to question my life choices.

But before we get into the chaos, let’s rewind a bit.

The Allure of Kheerganga and Its Mystical Roots

Nestled deep in the alpine forests of the Parvati Valley, Kheerganga is one of Himachal Pradesh’s most popular hot sulphur springs. Over the years, this mystical destination has become a hotspot for trekkers, backpackers, and spiritual seekers alike – partly due to the “hippie trail” and partly because of its deep-rooted connection to ancient legends.

It is believed that Lord Karthikeya, the younger son of Lord Shiva & Parvati meditated here for over 3,000 years, which makes Kheerganga a revered site for both Hindu and Sikh devotees. Many also believe the sulphur spring water here holds sacred healing powers. The 13-kilometre trek to Kheerganga takes you through lush alpine forests, quaint villages, and past the enchanting Rudra Nag waterfalls, making it not just a hike but a truly mesmerising experience.

My First Himalayan Trek: April 2017

I decided to take on the challenge of the Kheerganga Trek with my friend Prashant in the first week of April 2017. Both of us were based in New Delhi, so we boarded an overnight Volvo to Bhuntar, followed by a local bus to Kasol. Along the way, we met Tevin, a solo traveller from Mumbai, who decided to join us upon hearing about our Kheerganga plans.

Day 1: Reaching Tosh – The Adventure Begins

The official starting point of the Kheerganga trek is Barshaini, a quiet little town about 16 km ahead of Kasol. We reached Kasol by early afternoon, had a hearty lunch, and were soon joined by Tevin’s brother Ethan. Together, we hopped on a bus to Barshaini.

Instead of taking a shared cab, we opted to walk the 4 km to Tosh, a picturesque village perched beside the Tosh River. Just a few minutes into the walk, the skies opened up and rain poured down, forcing us to halt. By the time we reached Tosh, it was pitch dark, and to make matters worse, there was no electricity. After checking several places, we finally found a room tucked away below Kutla.

Day 2: Rain Delays Our Kheerganga Trek

We woke up the next morning to a soaked Parvati Valley. The rain hadn’t just ruined the trails—it had delayed our plans. Though the view from our guesthouse was breathtaking, it came with the cost of postponing our trek.

While we decided to wait out the weather, Tevin and Ethan couldn’t delay their plans due to upcoming commitments. They left via a shortcut suggested by our guesthouse caretaker—an alternative trail through the forest.

Prashant and I, meanwhile, explored Kutla and trekked towards the Tosh Glacier, getting a taste of the slippery terrain. Secretly, we hoped the skies would clear up soon.

Day 3: Lost on the Trail to Kheerganga

Choosing the Trail Less Travelled to Kheerganga Trek

The third day began just as we hoped—sunny and clear. After a quick breakfast of sandwiches, we were ready to finally begin our trek. As we prepared to head towards Barshaini to take the main trail, our caretaker suggested we try the same shortcut Tevin and Ethan had taken a day earlier.

It started adventurously enough—crossing a stream and heading into a dense forest with what he claimed was a “faint but visible” trail. I couldn’t see much of a trail, but Prashant insisted he could, so I followed his lead.

What followed was over an hour of steep, slippery climbing, made more treacherous by the previous day’s rain. We were knee-deep in mud, with no signs of a clear path or civilisation. Ironically, had we taken the proper route via Barshaini, we’d have reached the main trail by now.

Facing My Biggest Fear even before starting the Kheerganga Trek

Eventually, we found ourselves at a terrifying point—a sheer drop of 100–150 metres beside a path barely wide enough for one foot. I wanted to turn back, but Prashant argued that descending the slippery slope would be even more dangerous. Reluctantly, I agreed.

He went first, carefully inching across with his light 20L backpack. I, on the other hand, was lugging an 80L pack and could barely breathe as I followed, heart pounding. I kept imagining myself as Sylvester Stallone in Cliffhanger, trying to suppress my panic with every step.

Finally, we crossed. I felt a momentary sense of relief, only to be confronted by another narrow trail with a similar death drop.

This time, there was no turning back. We crossed it the same way—Prashant first, me trailing behind like a nervous wreck.

Choosing the Safer Way Forward

That was my limit. As soon as we crossed the second sheer drop, I decided we couldn’t risk another one. I took the lead and chose a trail that descended downward, praying it would lead us to safety—or at least back to a village where we could ask for directions.

What happened next? Well, that’s a story in itself.

👉 Click here to read Part 2 of this adventure – “How I Completed the Kheerganga Trek After Getting Lost” and you can find out how we finally made it to Kheerganga… or if we even did.

Final Thoughts

Everyone talks about the beauty of the Himalayas, but rarely about the challenges and missteps that often become the best stories later. This trek to Kheerganga taught me more than I expected—about nature, fear, resilience, and most importantly, about trusting your instincts (and maybe not always following the “shortcut”).