Through Fire and Ice: Conquering Nichnai Pass on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

Why Kashmir Great Lakes Trek?

When people call Kashmir “Heaven on Earth”, they aren’t exaggerating. Imagine meadows splashed with wildflowers, crystal-blue lakes reflecting snow-capped peaks, and valleys so untouched they look like paintings. The Kashmir Great Lakes Trek, an eight-day journey from Sonamarg to Naranag, is exactly that — a moving postcard that constantly takes your breath away.

I first heard about this trek from my friend Naveen. The moment I googled the pictures, I was hooked — those sweeping 70-degree panoramas went straight onto my bucket list. By September 2018, fate (and a failed Valley of Flowers plan) brought me here, backpack in hand, heart racing with anticipation.

🌄 Day 1: Touchdown in Heaven – From Srinagar to the Meadows of Sonamarg

The Road to Sonamarg – A Grand Prelude

A crisp morning flight carried me from the chaos of Delhi straight into the calm embrace of Srinagar. The very first glimpse through the airplane window felt surreal — a valley cradled by mountains, kissed by streams of sunlight. My adventure was already writing itself.

Renok Adventures had arranged our pickup, and by 2 PM, I was on my way to Sonamarg in a shared cab. At our rendezvous point in Srinagar city, I met Sachin — my soon-to-be trek mate, who had already been soaking in the Kashmiri vibe since morning. Together we went to fetch Andrii, a Ukrainian traveler waiting for us at a community hall. With our small group assembled, we began the drive that would set the tone for the trek ahead.

The road to Sonamarg was nothing short of cinematic. Pine forests hugged the slopes, rivers gushed alongside, and tiny wooden houses peeked out from golden meadows. We halted midway for lunch, where I tasted authentic Kashmiri delicacies — the rich Rogan Josh and the melt-in-the-mouth Gushtaba. One thing was clear: Kashmir doesn’t just please your eyes, it spoils every sense.

Just when I thought the day was about easing into the mountains, our driver dropped a twist: instead of staying the night in Sonamarg as planned, our batch was being merged with an earlier one. Which meant — no warmup. We would start trekking the very moment we arrived. Fate clearly had no patience.

First Steps on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek – Sonamarg to Nichnai

At around 4 PM, we reached Sonamarg. Two local guides with mules were already waiting, eager to rush us to camp before dark. Bags were strapped onto the mules, leaving us light-footed to climb.

The trail instantly threw steep ascents at us, but honestly, who could complain? Every turn opened up to scenery that felt like stolen frames from a dream — rolling green carpets, distant glaciers glowing in the evening light, and a horizon that seemed to stretch forever. In the spell of those views, time bent. What should have felt like a grueling 2.5-hour climb melted into what felt like a brisk walk. By 6:30 PM, almost without realizing it, we had reached our first campsite.

Meeting my Kashmir Great Lakes Trek Family

Waiting at camp was Riaz, our trek leader, who welcomed us with warmth that felt like home. Soon I was introduced to my new batchmates, eleven strangers who would soon become family: Mayank, whose office turned out to be right across from mine; Nikunj and Mehak from Mumbai; Rahul and his brother, also from Mumbai but proudly Gujarati; Srinivas Sir and SK, both from the Indian Air Force in Hyderabad; Hussain from Hyderabad but now based in Bangalore; the lively couple Vicky and Mayuri from Mumbai; and Malvika from Pune.

In the flickering light of our first camp, as stories and laughter began weaving between us, I realized something important: the trek had already begun gifting me more than mountains and meadows. It was gifting me people, moments, and memories that would shape this journey into something unforgettable.

🌄 Day 2: Through Fire and Ice – The Grueling March to Vishansar Lake via Nichnai Pass

Dawn at Nichnai – Sleepless but Spellbound

The sleeping bag was more enemy than friend, and by 4:30 AM, I gave up on the idea of sleep. Crawling out of the tent, the chill bit hard, but the view healed everything. The valley was hushed in silence, broken only by the crackling river nearby. With the first rays of dawn kissing the peaks, I stood there half-drowsy, half-dazed — wondering if I had somehow stumbled into a postcard.

Tea and a hot breakfast soon rallied the camp. With weary smiles, we packed up quickly; today wasn’t going to be ordinary. We were to cover two days’ worth of trail in one. That meant pain, endurance, and a whole lot of stubbornness.

Into the Heart of the Nichnai Pass – A Test of Grit

The initial trail eased us in gently, winding through tall pines and whispering streams. But soon the tree line vanished, and the landscape exploded into wide-open meadows and jagged cliffs. The further we walked, the more it felt like stepping onto a movie set where nature had gone a little overboard with her paintbrush.

The approach to Nichnai Pass lulled us into a false sense of comfort — gentle slopes, playful breezes, and surreal views. Then came the real trial. The climb to Nichnai was the trek’s first serious gut-punch. Steep, relentless, and demanding. With every step, the thin air pushed against my lungs, and my legs began staging a rebellion. Nichnai was no pass; it was an endurance exam, and every single one of us was being tested.

📌 Pro-Trekker Note: The climb to Nichnai Pass is a steep altitude gain. Pace yourself, take smaller steps, and keep sipping water. This is where many trekkers realize the Himalayas aren’t here to play nice.

The Other Side of Nichnai Pass – Mud, Boulders, and Bruised Knees

Crossing the pass felt triumphant, but the descent was no gift. Instead of an easy walk down, the trail threw mud, boulders, and slippery stretches at us. My knees screamed in protest. Progress was slow, every step demanding focus. What I thought would be relief turned into another grind.

And yet — even while battling fatigue, the landscapes kept stealing my breath. Valleys unfolded in endless waves, stitched together by streams that shimmered in the afternoon sun. Beauty and struggle walked hand in hand that day.

The Endless Valley March – Beauty vs. Fatigue

By the time we entered the long valley stretch, the sun was merciless, fatigue was crushing, and my pace collapsed. Flat land usually feels like relief, but not today. Every step was heavier than the last. My body begged for rest, while my eyes feasted greedily on the vast wilderness — glaciers in the distance, meadows that rolled to eternity, and the haunting silence of the mountains.

Nikunj, Malvika, and I drifted to the back of the group, stopping often to catch our breath and sip water. When Vishansar camp finally appeared in sight, I wasn’t relieved. I was wrecked.

📌 Pro-Trekker Note: Fatigue and mild AMS symptoms often hit hardest after double-distance days. Don’t ignore your body — hydrate constantly, eat light, and rest as much as you can.

Vishansar Camp – Choosing Rest Over Pride

Reaching camp felt less like victory and more like collapse. My head was pounding, fever nudged at my body, and the fear of AMS gnawed at my mind. I just curled into my sleeping bag, and let exhaustion take over.

That evening, over dinner, the group huddled together with Riaz, our trek leader. The question was simple but crucial: should we stick to the plan or listen to our bodies? Wisdom won over bravado. We unanimously agreed to take our rest day here at Vishansar, instead of pushing further. The decision wasn’t about giving up — it was about surviving to see the trek through.

As I crawled into bed that night, still aching but oddly content, one thought lingered: the Himalayas had shown us her beauty, but also her merciless side. And we had just begun.

The next two days would unfold some of the trek’s most breathtaking wonders — the twin jewels of Vishansar and Kishansar Lakes, reflections so perfect they blur the line between sky and water. There would be new climbs, deeper challenges, and moments that would etch themselves permanently in memory.

👉 Up Next: From Stillness to Summits: Vishansar to Gadsar on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

Summary

Article Name

Through Fire and Ice: Conquering Nichnai Pass on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

Description

Experience the magic of the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek — from Sonamarg’s meadows to the tough climb over Nichnai Pass and beyond.

Author

Abhilash

Publisher Name

Just an Ordinary Trekker

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