Bhagwabasa & Beyond – My near summit at Roopkund Trek
Roopkund Trek blogs to read before you start this one:
- The Beginning of My Roopkund Trek: Into the Himalayan Rollercoaster
- Hiking through Ali & Bedni Bugyal: Roopkund’s Emerald Meadows in Full Bloom
Day 5: Pathar Nachuni to Bhagwabasa (and Back)
The Dilemma of Missing Out on Roopkund Trek Summit
After four intense days of trekking, we found ourselves stuck in a familiar Himalayan dilemma — caught between hope and heartbreak. The persistent evening showers that had accompanied us all the way from Lohajung to Bhagwabasa finally dealt their cruel blow. Due to the worsening weather, the final stretch to Roopkund Lake was declared off-limits.
At Pathar Nachuni, the reality hit — the summit wasn’t going to happen. To make matters worse, the situation at Bhagwabasa was deteriorating. Snowfall had blocked the mules from reaching the campsite, resulting in a scarcity of food and water. Pipes had frozen, and melting snow wasn’t enough to meet everyone’s needs.
Still, I wasn’t ready to turn back entirely. After discussing with my guide, we decided to hike up to Bhagwabasa and return to Pathar Nachuni by evening — just to experience what we could.
Day Hike to Bhagwabasa – So near yet so far from the summit of Roopkund Trek
I began the hike after breakfast, carrying just a daypack with essentials — water, gaiters, and crampons. My friends from Aahvan Adventures had started earlier, planning a long descent to Bedni Bugyal after touching Bhagwabasa.
Two hours into the climb, lungs burning in the thinning air, I reached Kalu Vinayak Temple, the midpoint between Pathar Nachuni and Bhagwabasa. The sight of Mount Trishul, standing tall in the backdrop, made every step worth it.
This sacred temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha, whose blessings are considered vital for a successful and safe summit. But beyond the spiritual calm, the vantage point offered dramatic contrasts — lush green meadows stretching behind and snow-draped peaks ahead.
Entering the Snow Trail – Slipping Towards a Dream
Just beyond Kalu Vinayak, snow started dominating the trail. The terrain turned slippery, steep, and dangerous. For a first-timer on snow, every step was a cautious adventure. At a few tricky sections, I had to hold my guide’s hand — trusting his footing more than my own.
Eventually, we reached Bhagwabasa, the highest campsite of the Roopkund Lake Trek. After a short break and a hot cup of tea, we ventured a few hundred meters further. But soon, reality struck again — the snow was rapidly melting under the sun, making the trail riskier by the minute.
Reluctantly, we turned back. Descending the same route, the path had already grown more treacherous. But once we crossed Kalu Vinayak, it was downhill all the way to Pathar Nachuni. We reached the camp by afternoon, in time for lunch.
As evening fell, the skies lit up in a blaze of colours — nature’s way of rewarding those who dare, even when the summit isn’t possible.
Day 6: Pathar Nachuni to Bedni Bugyal
A Short Walk with Long Views
Today’s hike was short and easy — just a few kilometres back to Bedni Bugyal. So I allowed myself the luxury of a slow start. The scenery was a photographer’s dream: rolling green carpets, endless ridges, and snow-clad peaks hiding and revealing themselves with every bend.
Despite taking several breaks just to breathe it all in, I reached the Bedni Bugyal campsite well before lunch. But this time, I didn’t have my trekking buddies for company.
Power Bank Woes – A Trekker’s Rookie Mistake
With time on my hands, I thought I’d finally recharge my phone. That’s when I realised my power bank had completely drained — thanks to the freezing nights. I borrowed a charger from a local, but it hit me hard how unprepared I was.
Coming from short treks like Kheerganga and Triund, I had underestimated how vital a power bank is at high altitudes. Photos became a luxury I could no longer afford, and I had to rely on others for memories. Lesson learned — power banks are worth their weight in gold up here.
A Solo Summit – Climbing the Ridge Above Bedni
Post lunch, I spotted a nearby hilltop with two small stone stacks. Though about 500 metres higher, the slope was steep and challenging. But my afternoon was free — and my heart still craved a summit.
An hour later, I was standing at the top. On my left was the mighty Mt Trishul, glowing in soft gold. On my right, the serene expanse of Ali Bugyal. I sat in silence, turning from left to right, trying to soak in every inch of that divine view.
New Friends and Familiar Tranquility
By evening, the campsite welcomed new trekkers — some from Delhi, others from Bangladesh. Over tea, we swapped stories, shared laughter, and connected in that inexplicable way that only the mountains make possible.
Dinner never tasted so good. Afterward, I stepped outside my tent one last time. There it was again — Mt Trishul, peeking from behind my tent, shining under the moonlight. The peace it brought me was unmatched.
Day 7: Bedni Bugyal to Wan — Back to Civilization after a memorable Roopkund Trek
I started the last leg of the Roopkund trail with a plate of egg Maggi — which, let’s be honest, always tastes better in the mountains. Within half an hour, I crossed the treeline again — entering a lush world of Rhododendrons, bright and welcoming.
The descent to Wan was steeper than I expected. My knees felt every metre. By the time I reached the Neel Ganga river, I was exhausted. A small juice stall near the river became my salvation. I sipped on refreshing Rhododendron juice, finally giving my legs the break they deserved.
This delightful view is from that shop!
After crossing the river, a short climb brought us to Wan, the last village with road access. Mr. Pradeep from UTT was already there to pick me up. The hour-long drive to Lohajung felt surreal.
P.S. – Ignore the guy and just enjoy the view!
The first thing I did after checking into the hotel? A hot shower. I had never felt more blessed.
Day 8: Lohajung to Delhi – The Return
After six nights under the sky, with frozen toes and starry dreams, that hotel bed in Lohajung felt like five-star luxury. Hot water. Clean sheets. Silence. Gratitude.
After breakfast, I left with Pradeep for Haldwani. My bus to Delhi was at 10 PM, so I killed time with some beers at a local retro bar. Sitting there, with the journey behind me, it finally sank in — this chapter had closed.
Final Thoughts
The Roopkund Trek may not have ended at the lake, but it gifted me something just as precious — stories, lessons, friendships, and awe. I may not have reached the summit, but I found something else along the way.
P.S. — I will be back. The unfinished business with Roopkund and the call of Ali Bugyal won’t let me rest until I do.
3 Comments
Bindiya S
Enjoyed reading your Roopkund trek experience. Very well written.
Abhi
Thank you very much 🙂
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