
From Stillness to Summits: Vishansar to Gadsar on the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek
🌄 Continuing the Journey: From Nichnai Pass to Gadsar in Kashmir Great Lakes Trek
If you’ve been following my journey from Through Fire and Ice: Conquering Nichnai Pass, you already know how the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek tests your endurance, rewards your spirit, and steals your breath at every turn. After conquering the mighty Nichnai Pass and pushing through exhaustion to reach Vishansar, our story continues from this point, where the raw challenge slowly gives way to serenity, bonding, and otherworldly beauty.
In this part of the trek, we slow down, breathe deeper, and discover the magic hidden between the mountains, from lazy mornings by Vishansar Lake to the adrenaline of climbing Gadsar Pass, the highest point of the entire trail.
Join me as we move from survival to soul-soothing beauty, a journey that proves that in the Himalayas, even a “rest day” can be unforgettable.
🌤 Day 3: The Rest Day – A Lazy Pause in Kashmir Great Lakes Trek
A Torturous Night and a Relieving Dawn
If I had to describe that night in one word — it would be endless. Fever, cold, and a stubbornly uncooperative sleeping bag made sure of that. The hours crawled by as I tossed and turned, praying for morning to arrive. When the faintest hint of dawn finally brushed the tent walls, I practically leapt out just to escape that icy prison.
Outside, the world was wrapped in misty calm. The only other soul awake was Chacha — one of our ever-cheerful support staff — crouched near a small fire, puffing on his pipe like it was his morning ritual. He nodded, smiled, and gestured for me to join the warmth.
Soon, others began emerging from their tents, sleepy-eyed and shivering. As if on cue, someone announced, “Chai aa gayi!” and the camp instantly came alive. There’s something magical about that first cup of steaming tea in the mountains — hands wrapped around the tin cup, the chill biting your nose, and that perfect warmth spreading through your body. No café in the world can serve that kind of comfort.

Breakfast followed soon after — hearty and hot, just the way we needed.
A Slow Morning and Some Well-Earned Laziness
Once the plates were cleared, everyone began preparing for a short trail cleanup near Vishansar Lake. My body, however, had other plans. After two sleepless nights, I was running on fumes — so I made the practical (and slightly guilty) choice to skip it and crawl back into my tent.
This time, with the sun gently heating the tent, sleep finally found me. Hours later, I woke up to find Sachin back from his lake exploration, full of stories about reflections and calm waters I’d yet to see. But for the first time in days, I actually felt human again.
Mafia Madness in the Mountains
By afternoon, the mood in camp had shifted from sluggish to playful. Someone casually suggested, “Let’s play Mafia,” and suddenly, the dining tent transformed into a crime-ridden courtroom. Laughter, fake accusations, and dramatic deaths filled the air.
We played through the afternoon, through sunset, through dinner — until Riaz, our trek leader, finally pleaded, “Bas karo yaar, let us sleep!” Only then did we reluctantly call it a night.
It was my first time playing Mafia — and while I was a pretty hopeless player, it didn’t matter. That day wasn’t about trekking or winning games. It was about being still, recovering, and bonding.
And as I crawled into my tent that night, I realized: sometimes, the most memorable moments on a trek are the ones where you do absolutely nothing.
🏔 Kashmir Great Lakes Trek Day 4: Vishansar to Gadsar – The Twin Lakes and the Mighty Gadsar Pass
A Freezing Morning and a Frosted World
Sleep once again eluded me, but by now I’d made peace with it. When I finally stepped out of my tent, the sight stopped me cold — quite literally. The entire meadow was blanketed in frost, glittering white under the early light. It felt like walking through a frozen dream.
Chacha was already by his little fire, pipe in hand, and I joined him like clockwork. Slowly the others gathered too, shivering and clutching cups of tea that somehow never stayed hot long enough. Even tea had met its match against the biting cold that morning.
The moment sunlight hit the campsite, we all rushed like moths to a flame, soaking in those golden rays like it was life itself. After a quick breakfast, we packed up and got ready to take on the day’s challenge — the climb to Gadsar Pass, the highest point of the entire trek.
Walking Between Two Worlds

The trail started gently, winding past the stunning Vishansar Lake, which we’d camped beside, and soon after, the shimmering Krishansar Lake. To my left, Krishansar glowed like a polished mirror; to my right, frost-covered meadows stretched endlessly, white and silent.

It was as if I was walking a fine line between two worlds — one alive with blue and reflection, the other frozen in silver stillness.

The Grueling Climb to Gadsar Pass
Then the real climb began.
The ascent to Gadsar was steep and unrelenting. Each step demanded focus and grit. My lungs burned, my legs protested, but every time I turned around, the view of the twin lakes growing smaller below was enough to keep me going. They looked unreal — two perfect blue circles framed by green and gold, glistening under the morning sun.

Even Malvika, who had been battling stomach flu since Day 1, refused to surrender. She rode partway on a mule, partway on sheer determination — and made it to the top. Hats off to her spirit; she reminded us all why we trek — not to conquer mountains, but to challenge ourselves.
On Top of the Gadsar Pass – The highest point of Kashmir Great Lakes Trek

When we finally reached the Gadsar Pass (13,750 ft), words failed. On one side, Vishansar and Krishansar gleamed like twin jewels; on the other, a barren canvas exploded into shades of red, brown, and gold — a landscape so surreal it reminded me of Peru’s famed Rainbow Mountains.

The wind howled around us, fierce and untamed. I just sat there, breathless — not from the climb, but from sheer awe. And then, out of nowhere, the “Gujju gang” (Nikunj, Mehak, Rahul, and his brother) burst into a spontaneous Garba right there at the top! Mayank joined in, and soon laughter drowned out the wind.
Else what can explain how they managed to find energy at top of Gadsar Pass at a height of 13000 feet with wind blowing at neck break speed.
These are the moments that stay — the kind you don’t plan, but never forget.
The Descent to Gadsar
The descent was kinder on the legs but long. After two hours of careful trekking, Gadsar Lake came into view — a dazzling blue gem cradled between rugged mountains. We stopped there briefly, snapping photos, letting the beauty sink in.

But our camp was still miles away.

As Hussain and I trudged along, we lost sight of the faster duo — Srinivas Sir and SK — our fittest trekkers. For a while, it was just the two of us, following faint trails through the wilderness, hoping we hadn’t gone astray. Eventually, as the sun began to soften, we spotted the tents in the distance — and two familiar figures waving from afar.
Relief. Achievement. And, of course, a round of Mafia to close the day.
That night, as laughter once again filled the dining tent, I realized we were halfway through the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek. But somehow, it already felt like a lifetime of memories.
🌅 Coming Up Next
If the first half of the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek was about pushing limits, the next part would be about losing yourself to beauty. From Gadsar’s sapphire waters to the mesmerizing trails leading to Satsar and Gangbal Lakes, the journey ahead only gets more magical.
👉 Next Up: Lakes of Legend – Satsar to Gangbal (Day 5 & Day 6 of the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek)
Stay tuned — the adventure is far from over.




2 Comments
Bindiya S
Can visualise each moment of yours expressed it so beautifully. Very well written.
Abhi
Thank you so much! 😊
It makes me really happy to know the words could help you visualize the journey — that’s exactly what I hope for when I write. Grateful for your kind feedback and encouragement! 🌿🏔️